Today was certainly a better day! Even though I slept a bunch throughout the day yesterday, I still got a decent night’s sleep last night. Karen certainly did, as she was not up all night worried about me. I awoke ready to tackle the day (or at least nudge it slowly along).
The drop in temperature was evident even in the early morning hours. We were able to sit outside for coffee and breakfast, taking in the beauty of the sun playing off the mountains. I felt good enough to suggest we walk to the visitor’s center (only 0.5 miles away) and maybe take a shuttle into the canyon.
Karen had mentioned in her post two days ago that I haven’t been to Zion since the 90’s. To my best recollection, it has likely been 30 years. On the drive in, I did notice a lot more development from the closest main highway (Interstate 15) into Springdale. The town itself appears to have gotten larger. But so much of that may not be accurate because I did not pay that much attention in the past.
Walking from our campground to the visitor’s center, I was immediately hit by the extent of the changes. The center is now a massive complex of buildings and services, including outfitters for hiking the Narrows (more later) as well as backcountry camping. This area also serves as the transportation hub for the mandatory shuttle system into the main canyon (“Big Zion”).
The shuttle system became mandatory, for the majority of the year, in the year 2000. The implementation is truly wonderful, with plenty of busses and space to wait. And, with annual visitation that has grown 147% over the last 20 years, necessary to reduce crowding and parking in the narrow canyon.
But I sure do miss the “old” days.
It is a completely different experience now. Driving in the canyon myself, I was able to better view and enjoy the vast expanse on the way in and out. True, parking could be a challenge on busy days, but the feeling coming into the canyon was more visceral than it is now. If you’ve been to Disney World, think of the difference between parking your car and walking into Epcot versus stepping off the Monorail at Magic Kingdom’s gates. It’s just somewhat diluted now. Not at all bad, just a bit of a shadow of its former self.
And if you’ve followed us long enough you know how crowds of people are not really our thing. Well, Zion is one big crowd of people! Even now, quite early in the season, the place is very busy. As much as we may find that less appealing, we still believe it is good that people want to experience such an amazing national park. The more people experience it for themselves, the more they will care to protect these gems. So, I grumble under my breath about all these “tourists” and go on enjoying the view.
So we boarded a bus at the visitor’s center and headed up the canyon. We stayed on the bus to the very last stop in order to do a short walk back to the beginning of the Narrows. The walk along the Virgin River (which has slowly carved Zion Canyon over the millennia) was wonderful. Watching the walls get gradually closer is fascinating. The paved trail ends, and the water begins.
The Narrows is one of the two most popular hikes in Zion (the other being Angel’s Landing). The Narrows is a hike within the flowing river, up canyon, for almost 16 miles. As the hike progresses upstream, the walls of the canyon become closer and closer, at some points only feet apart. The pictures we have seen are amazing. The vast majority of people, however, hike only a short distance in the water off the paved trail. That fills their bucket (no pun intended), so I do not judge! Perhaps if we visit in the future we will give it a try. For today, that was enough walking for me.
On the ride back we did hop off the shuttle in the Big Bend area of the canyon, home to the famous Angel’s Landing hike. This is certainly the most ominous hike in Zion, with a name that belies it’s fear factor. Karen and I have both experienced Angel’s. (Karen edit: I only hiked to Scouts Lookout, just before Angel’s Landing…) We got a good look (from canyon level) of what we had accomplished. Felt good!!
We returned on the shuttle to the visitor’s center and then walked back to our campsite. I was beat, so we sat inside in the air conditioning while I took a nap, the effects of the heat exhaustion still lingering. After recharging we thought the best thing to do was to get ice cream! Obviously…
So we headed across the street from the campground for a scoop. Today would have been Karen’s mom’s (Gloria) 84th birthday, so Karen chose coconut ice cream to remember her. I never had the pleasure of meeting Gloria or James, but I can be certain they would be proud of their daughter and happy to see her enjoying life to the fullest.
With the cooler temps we were able to sit outside after our treat. The campground was much quieter this evening, which is nice. Only the sound of the wind breaking that silence.
Rain drops started falling, forcing us to pack up and head inside. But here we sit with the windows open, an ample supply of crisp, clean air filling Livvy. A good bottle of red nearing the bottom. Cheese and fresh bread and grapes for dinner.
Slowing down does not mean missing out.
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