Rain is something we haven’t had to deal with much on this trip. That was until we woke up this morning and found ourselves in a deluge. While we were very cozy inside, packing up and moving out is not necessarily fun in precipitation. So we took our time, had some breakfast and coffee, before finally accepting that we just needed to move on. The rain had slowed some, so we put on our raingear and got packed.
There are really only two routes from Torrey to Bryce Canyon. One heads northwest before turning south to Bryce. This is more highway, and a decidedly easier drive. The other, Utah Route 12, dips south before turning southwest to Bryce. It is a well maintained 2-lane road, but takes a precipitous route up and over a remote mountain pass before diving through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Of course, we chose to go that route.
Route 12, conveniently located at the exit to our RV park, slowly climbed up into the surrounding mountains. It was still raining, but not heavy enough to be dangerous. Yet we climbed higher and higher. Eventually, the rain gave way to a mix of rain and snow. This, of course, turned into all snow as we ascended the range.
Up and up we went, through 8,500 feet above sea level, yet the incline and snow did not stop. Gradually the roadside, barren green to that point, started to be snow covered. Vehicles coming the opposite direction had snow and slush all over. Karen commented that that was not a good sign. But on we climbed.
The landscape around was covered in inches-deep snow now, and the berms showed signs of recent plowing. The roadway itself was covered in white, and we followed along narrow tire tracks from those who went before us. Unsure how long this would go on, we simply slowed down and tried to be careful.
At 9,600 feet we finally reached the summit of the pass and the road leveled briefly. We made it through the uphill, but the downhill had the potential to be even worse. Our fears were unfounded, and the downside of the pass was uneventful. We were, however, thankful to get out of the clouds and snow and back into a light rain.
After more than two weeks on the road, we had a small but important grocery list going. Mostly fresh vegetables (our supply of bagged salads was running very low), but also other staples. Karen had looked ahead of this drive and found two potential candidates – one in Boulder and the other in Escalante. Both were located right on Route 12 so they were convenient. The first one we came to was in Boulder.
Hills & Hollows Mini Mart. That was the name of our first attempt at groceries, located in the busting metropolis of Boulder (Utah, not Colorado). Part of a gas station and outdoor food complex, Hills & Hollows did not exactly give us hope when we pulled into the lot. But looks are so often deceiving.
While the store itself was small and the stock limited, what they did have was surprisingly good. We found several items on our list, and several more goodies that weren’t. It was a great find by Karen, and we left with our grocery bucket starting to fill.
Once we left Boulder (Utah, remember?), Route 12 entered Grand Staircase-Escalante National Forest. Otherworldly is the only word I can use to describe what we saw of this park. Like nothing we had seen before, the deep-cut canyons fell away on both sides of the road. In fact, one point along the drive is known as Hog’s Back due to the road traversing a narrow fin of rock, the sides dropping precipitously more than 1,00 feet on each side. In reality, it wasn’t nearly as scary as that sounds! But it was breathtaking. Grand Staircase is a MASSIVE park, encompassing more than 1.8 million acres, most of it completely inaccessible other than by foot. Driving Route 12 was a perfect way to experience it.
The town of Escalante lies just on the outskirts of the park. It is larger than Boulder (Utah, not Colorado), but not by a lot. It seems to thrive, however, on it’s proximity to so much outdoor activity. Cute bars, restaurants, and coffee shops lined the main street (Route 12) and gave it a quant feel. We were much more interested in Griffin’s, the bigger of two grocery stores in town.
The store was wonderful! Certainly smaller than what we’re used to back “in civilization”, but very well-stocked. We were thrilled to pick up a new supply of fresh veggies, as well as everything else we had on our shopping list. We even found a package of fresh ciabatta breads for a change in our lunch sandwiches. And the people working in the store were SO friendly! It was a perfect second stop, and will keep us supplied until we reach another WalMart (likely not until we get to Las Vegas).
Our home for the next four nights is at Ruby’s Inn RV Park & Campground, situated just one-half mile from the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park. It is the closest we can be without staying in the park. We even got a sneak peak at the park on the drive in, as Route 12 cuts into a section of the park before climbing to the plateau we now sit upon. If that preview is anything like what we’re about to see, it’s going to be amazing!
Karen has been here before, I have not. For her, the brief preview and the Ruby’s area invoked strong, positive memories of her time here in 2018. For me, it merely whet my whistle because I have so long wanted to visit the canyon. So we sit here tonight, listening to the still-falling rain tapping on our roof, filled with the anticipation of what the next few days will bring.
It will be awe-inspiring and wonderful, that we know. There may even be some tears of joy shed. But I already know it will hold a special place in our hearts forever. And we have Utah 12 to thank for getting us here.
Until tomorrow.
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