Yesterday morning started out much like the prior 8 since arriving in Maine – clear blue skies, cool temps and low humidity. Because we have been, for the most part, planning our days around the tide chart, we had plenty of time to relax before kayaking. Coffee and breakfast by the cove is one of our favorite times.
Our plan for the day was simple. We would start by kayaking (no surprise there) and following that we would head into Acadia for a hike or two. Karen decided that she wished to hike Beehive again, one that she conquered on our first visit together in 2021. I was a bit surprised, given the fact that on that fateful day four years ago, she took a bit of issue with my suggestion of the hike. And she let me know it. Let’s just say that words were uttered under breath and directed at me during that ascent.
But I get ahead of myself. First was kayaking. We headed out about 30 minutes before high tide. The back end of the cove was calm as usual. However, there was a stiff wind blowing in from the open sea which was creating rather choppy conditions. Those conditions made it much more difficult to paddle out of the cove, past the moored fishing boats, and into the open bay to watch for seals. And once out there, it was quite a workout just to stay in one place!
The seas were definitely a consistent 1′-2′, with occasional 2′-3′ bursts. That doesn’t amount to much in a larger boat but in a small kayak it seems huge. After spending almost an hour out there without seeing a single seal, we turned and let the winds gradually blow us back down the cove.
Even though I have experienced this return journey countless times since I first came to Maine, the feeling is always as magical as the first time. There is an unbroken quiet floating down the cove, punctuated by the regular inhabitants – the Kingfisher, the Heron, the Bald Eagle, and the Crows. The Heron and Bald Eagle are mainstays in Seal Cove and have greeted us each year as we visit their home. We try our best to be good guests.
After putting away the kayaks, we came back to the cabin for lunch. We needed a good meal to sustain us for what we knew would be a challenging hike. I asked again if Karen REALLY wanted to continue as planned. She replied with an emphatic yes, wanting to conquer the hill knowing full-well what was in store for her. It takes courage to plunge ahead without knowing what’s involved, but it takes vastly more when you are fully aware of the danger.
You see, Beehive is a hike that can be a bit daunting. Here’s the sign at the trailhead:
This sign is not at all an exaggeration. It is not overly dramatic. The hike up the face of Beehive (so named because the 500′ rock outcropping really does resemble a beehive) is short, less than 0.5 miles. Of that, a section of 0.3 miles rises an impressive 430+ feet in elevation, traversing several vertical walls along very narrow paths.
The “hike” up involves many areas of completely vertical climbing up iron rungs driven into the rock almost 100 years ago. There are places where you ascend blindly onto landings that end up being angled precariously away from the cliff face, creating a very uneasy feeling. Some sections require scrambling on all fours. There is one nasty area where the rock pushes out away from vertical, meaning the climb up the iron rungs is even more exposed. While the mental aspect of the “hike” is undeniable, it is also physically exhausting.
Again, Karen knew all of this before choosing to attack Beehive again. And again she conquered her fears and the hike!
The views from the summit of Beehive are definitely wonderful (whether they were worth the effort, I will let Karen decide!). This was the 11th time I have done the hike and I will admit that it is still mentally tough for me, given my fear of heights. The sense of accomplishment is real. It is as close to actual rock climbing as I ever want to be again in my life. Much closer that Karen ever wanted to be, but she did it!
The short hike out, down the back side of the hill, was uneventful and pleasant. At the bottom, Karen told me that she will NEVER do that hike again. She said the same thing in 2021 but this time, I believe her.
This morning, Wednesday, we decided to take a drive to Schoodic Peninsula. Schoodic is on the mainland, and about an hour drive from the island. The peninsula is home to another section of Acadia National Park, one that is every bit as amazing but far less visited. If you’ve followed us on here for a while you’ll see a theme – keeping away from crowds!
We first visited Schoodic last year around this time. On that day, however, sea fog had enveloped most of the peninsula, affording us very few views of the surrounding landscape. This year the weather couldn’t have been better. The coastline is similar to the main, busiest, section of the park loop road in the main park. Enormous “beaches” of rock slabs working gradually down to the sea. Fractures and fissures split the rock, creating a fascinating landscape, one easily explored.
We found a nice place to sit here and take it all in. The surf gently rolling into the rocky shoreline. The lobstermen (lobsterpersons, to not offend?) going about their day checking traps. A lone kayaker braving the surf along the coast. The cool breeze blowing in off the bay. Views of Cadillac Mountain and our nemesis – Beehive – on Mount Desert Island.
And, a visit from a curious seal! The little girl (guy?) popping their head up out of the waves, seeming to get as much pleasure at looking at us as we were looking at them. They surfaced a couple of time while we sat, each time checking out the people on the rocks. Perhaps it was there on vacation just like us!
While we had planned to do a hike on Schoodic, it became apparent that we were both thoroughly exhausted from the past week of hiking, especially the last two days, so we nixed that idea. No reason to overdo things and possibly get hurt in the process. So we just enjoyed the views before heading back to the island.
First, though, we had to make a pitstop for a drink at Bunker’s. We stumbled upon this bar/restaurant last year on our way out of Schoodic. It is situated on Bunkers Harbor, an exclusively working harbor just north of the peninsula. Lobster boats move in and out continually throughout the day. There are seats behind the bar looking out over the harbor, the windows open to allow in the fresh air. How could we not stop here for a drink?
After a quick stop in Ellsworth to stock up a few needed groceries, we thought it the perfect time for ice cream. I’m not sure when it’s NOT a perfect time for ice cream, but this time seemed particularly good. We tried a new-to-us parlor called Udder Heaven. It lived up to that name. Very friendly staff and delicious ice cream in homemade waffle cones. We were both tired, but not too tired for that afternoon treat!
Finally arriving back at the cabin, the exhaustion got the best of us and we laid down for a nap. It was much needed and much appreciated. As we sit here now after dinner, I am writing this post while Karen gets in some needlepointing. There is a pack of coyote nearby and we can hear them clearly through the trees. We knew they were here because we found “evidence” of them yesterday morning on the path to the cove. Let’s just say there was a deposit made. Anyway, we are quietly winding down another fantastic day in Maine. Have a great evening wherever you are.
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