Well, we skipped another day of writing yesterday. Not because we got too carried away or had nothing to say. We spent last night in a very, very remote location and the promised WiFi was nowhere to be found.
Pursuing another recommendation from Linda and Dean, we stayed last night at Benton Hot Springs in California. As mentioned, this place was remote. Like, REALLY remote. No cellphone service, no hookups, and certainly no Starbucks. But what it did promise was that each campsite had its own private hot tub fed directly from a natural hot spring. How could we pass up that opportunity?
But I get ahead of myself. First thing yesterday morning we had to bid a fond farewell to Silver Lake, our home for the previous three nights. The drive to Benton was only about an hour, so we decided to take time to stop at Mono Lake (pronounced with long O’s). We had passed it on the way into Silver Lake and it looked interesting, so we thought we’d take a closer look.
The lake is known for exposed Tufa – calcified limestone formations formed underwater due to the interaction of spring water and highly salinized water (salt lake #1). Due to shrinking lake levels (see link above), these formations are now visible.
We did a couple of nice hikes and had lunch looking out over the lake. It was a great way to spend the middle of the day before our short drive to Benton.
Like much of our driving in California, the drive to Benton was breathtaking. There is just so much variety to what the state has to offer. Among the beauty, however, we realized that we just kept getting more and more remote. And there seemed to be no end in sight.
When we arrived I have to admit I was more than a bit skeptical of this decision. There was some confusion on how to check in (due to a lack of clarity in communication from the property) and very poor signage. After having to open the property gate ourselves, we then proceeded down a dirt and sand road, heavily pitted and rutted, toward our site. Not a good way to start.
As I said above, the allure of Benton Hot Springs is a private spring-fed hot tub. The marketing for the facility indicates it if clothing-optional, but that discretion is advised. As the sites had little to no privacy, clothing was going to be staying ON for this couple.
The tub was WAY too hot for either of us, so we turned off the continual inlet of hot water and enjoyed dinner while we waited for it to cool down some. To say at this point that I was not “feeling it” is an understatement.
Once the tub cooled and we were able to get it, everything changed. It was glorious! There is no chlorine, no bromine, nothing to smell bad or make you feel slimy or sticky. Just natural hot water right from the ground. We spent far longer soaking than we ever have in a regular hot tub, right through sunset and into the dark, because it was just so perfect. Once again, great call Linda and Dean!
We knew that today was going to be tough. After nearly a month, we were leaving California behind and beginning our journey home. Our itinerary had us driving from Benton to Salt Lake City, a drive according to Waze of about 7.5 hours. We knew stops would add about another hour. Plus we were going back into Mountain Time, so we’d lose an hour there. Not bad in a car, but a lot for us managing the RV.
Karen took the first leg this morning, heading out before 7am. Our route would take us east into Nevada, then north through its heart, then east again to SLC. It was the most desolate driving we’ve ever experienced. After a morning fuel-up, we passed a sign stating that there were NO services for the next 163 miles. And it was not hyperbole. We passed NOTHING, save a few ranches and abandoned homes, for 163 miles. And to top it off, we nearly never had cell service.
And the roads were mostly straight. Super straight. Unbending, unyieldingly straight. At one point we went almost 22 miles with the road not moving an inch to the left or right. The countryside seemed to change as we crested each rise, passed through each canyon, along the way. The only thing they all had in common was nearly a total lack of human habitation. It was wonderfully freeing but also somewhat frightening. But it was completely memorable.
As we got closer to Salt Lake City we passed the famous Bonneville Salt Flats, followed by Great Salt Lake (salt lake #2 – see how I did that?). Then – wham – rush hour. Talk about a complete 180 from the previous 7 hours!
Our stopping in SLC was not only a convenient place to stay the night, but we also got to visit with my Uncle Mike and his wife Yukiko and my cousin Saya. They came out to our campsite bearing pizza and veggies and fruit. We had a fantastic time catching up and sharing stories – many at the expense of my Uncle. It was super fun and we cannot thank them enough for all they did!
Our drives from here on out are all much more manageable, so we hope to have time for coffee and breakfast before heading out tomorrow. As of today, we have traveled just under 4,900 miles with many, many more to go. See you tomorrow from Wyoming (our 12th state in this trip).
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