We took the day off yesterday from writing. Not because we needed the break, but because our home last night was deep in the back end of the Yosemite Valley, and we had no connection. No data connection, that is. We definitely had a connection to the majesty around us.
Day 1 – May 5
Excited to get into Yosemite, we got up early to break camp and head in. The road leading up to the park’s west entrance winds up and alongside the Merced River, the same river that runs next to our campground. The river was in full-force, no doubt fueled by the late season snow which kept us from staying in the park the night before.
Every National Park has an entrance sign before the main gates. Some are bigger than others. But there’s something about seeing that sign that still gives me goosebumps. When we caught sight of the one for Yosemite, the feeling was almost overwhelming.
Only a short drive from the entrance the valley opens up, and the silhouette of peaks that have been etched in our minds over our lives comes into view. El Capitan was first, it’s granite wall of 3,000 towering above. Then others like Bridalveil Fall, Yosemite Falls, Cathedral Rocks, Yosemite Falls, Glacier Point, and of course, Half Dome. We made many stops along the park road to get out and admire the surroundings.
I know we have said this before in previous posts, but it was even more pronounced in Yosemite. There are truly no words I can find to describe it. I have heard so many people say it is their favorite park and now I know why. Within an hour of arriving, it had jumped to our #1 park as well. Pictures cannot convey the size of the walls or width of the valley. The sheer magnitude of what you’re surrounded by. And how close it all seems.
Due to snowfall the evening before, much of the higher elevations had a gorgeous layer of snow, highlighting the ridges and cracks in the walls. We were thrilled it was there and not on the road in the valley!
We were able to check into our campsite at the North Pines Campground at noon and we were eager to do so and get hiking! We showed up a little over an hour early, but the site was vacant and they let us in early. That gave us time to set up, eat lunch, and enjoy the scenery from the site. To say we had a great view is an understatement. To our right the huge face of Glacier Point shot upwards, and to our left was Half Dome. And all around we were surrounded by the smell of Sequoia trees.
After lunch we headed out for a 5 mile hike into the valley behind Mirror Lake. Breathtaking! As the valley narrowed the cliff faces seemed to close in on top of us. At the back end of the hike, the trail crossed the stream we had been following and headed back down the opposite side. We had been warned by other hikers that there was a very wet section of the trail, but that there was a trail around it we could follow instead. Didn’t seem like a big deal.
Only it was. The trail wasn’t wet – it was flooded! The stream had breached its banks and was using the trail to assist in moving more water downhill. We found the cutoff trail, which cut up and across the steep incline to the left side of the main trail. Nothing dangerous, but it certainly was a LOT of up and down on muddy slopes, going over and under fallen trees, and trying like hell not to slip! And it was not a short detour.
In the end, we regained the trail just at the foot of a talus slope directly below the arching wall of Half Dome. Yes, it was worth it! Although, we did have something to say to the trail before we left…
We enjoyed many other fun things (including a drink at a bar near the campground) before finally heading back to camp for dinner and a fire (and more drinks). It was such an amazing first day!
Day 2 – May 6
We set our alarms early in order to go outside and see the newly-risen sun lighting up the walls around us. And we were certainly rewarded!
We decided to do a short hike in the morning before checking out because finding a place to park our RV that far back in the canyon another day would be next to impossible. The hike was to Vernal Falls, and was just under 2 miles roundtrip. Easy! Except that there was 500 feet of elevation gain on the way in, over less than one mile. That’s fairly steep (as was the trail!).
Although we sweated profusely and were forced to share the company of too many people (it’s a popular hike), we were rewarded with amazing views back down the valley and of the waterfall itself. It was definitely worth the climb (and dealing with people).
The downside of the hiking was that my knee had had enough. There would be no more today. Instead, we parked alongside main road next to an amazing field in the valley. We made a short walk to get a few needed grocery items and visit the Ansel Adams Gallery (a must if you ever come out here), and returning to Livvy had lunch among the amazing views.
On the way out of the park, El Capitan is the last true monolithic wall you pass in the valley. As we drove by, we noticed a group of onlookers gazing up at the wall with spotting scopes. Sure enough, there was a group of climbers making an ascent of the 3,000 foot tower. We were able to see them, tethered to the rock and each other, gear bags hanging below. They were high up, probably 1,000 feet above the valley floor where we stood. Yet they were only 1/3 of the way to their goal. It was fantastic to see and terrifying to imagine. That is something best left to younger people.
We closed the day by returning to Indian Flat RV Park for some relaxation and dinner. Tomorrow we head to Wawona Campground, in the southern end of Yosemite and further away from the crowds – hopefully!
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